🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. But, nestled high among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.